
Great Glacier is the largest outlet glacier of the Stikine Icefield feeding the Stikine River. The name came from the large expanse of the glacier in the lowlands of the Stikine River during the late 19th and early 20th century, that has now become a large lake. In 2023 I worked on a signage project for the Great Glacier Provincial Park with Hailey Smith, BC Park Ranger, documenting the changes in this glacier particularly since 1914.
The glacier filled what is now a large lake at the terminus of the glacier pushing the Stikine River to the east side of the valley. The Tahltan nation oral history relates when the glacier bridged the Stikine River and meet Choquette Glacier. In 1914 the glacier was easy to ascend from the banks of the Stikine River, the picture above is from the National Railroad Archive. By 1965 the new lake had formed, but the glacier still reached the far side of the lake in several places as indicated by the 1965 Canadian Topographic Map below. R. Patterson (Writer and Canadian Explorer 1898-1984) noted that Great Glacier came down onto the river flats, and displayed a 7 km front visible from the Stikine River.

A comparison of 1986, 1990, 2011 and 2022 illustrates the retreat. By 1986 the new lake had largely developed, and the glacier was beginning to retreat into the mountain valley above the lake. Retreat from the moraines of the late 19th century was 3200 m. By 2011 the glacier had retreated further into valley, 900 m retreat from 1986-2011. From 2011 to 2022 the glacier retreated another 1200 m. The lake has expanded to an area of 15 km2
A view of the glacier from across the lake today indicates the distance to the now valley confined glacier, and the trimlines of the former ice surface, yellow arrows in middle image The Great Glacier has one major tributary on the northeast tributary that is very low in elevation with a top elevation of 800 m. Given the regional snowline of 1100-1200 meters in the 1980s (Pelto, 1987) this is too low to retain snowcover through the summer and will lead to rapid progressive thinning. In 2018 and 2019 the highest observed snowlines in the region occurred, the snowline averaged 1500 m, leaving just 10% of the Great Glacier snowcovered. This is instead of the 60% needed to maintain equilibrium. Stikine Icefield outlet glaciers are all undergoing substantial retreats including Sawyer Glacier, Baird Glacier and Dawes Glacier.

Great Glacier snowline end of summer in 2018 and 2019 reached the highest levels observed at 1500-1600 m.

